Do-it-yourself house cladding with inexpensive vinyl siding

vinyl siding

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Facade preparation.

Before installing the vinyl siding, all facade finishing works are completed. All the seams are caulked in the chopped walls. All unnecessary nails are pulled out of the walls, drain pipes and other hinged “extra” elements that will interfere with the installation are removed. Remove plat bands from window and doorways. Rotten and broken boards are replaced with new ones. All loose structures are fixed.
If necessary, arrange thermal insulation.

Sheathing device.

In a house with frame walls, you can do without lathing, but only if the corners and surfaces of the walls are perfectly flat, which does not happen often. On uneven timber frame, as well as stone and block walls, a crate must be installed.
Please note: “flat surface” does not mean “vertical” at all. They are not the same thing. Siding can be mounted on both vertical and inclined walls. It is more convenient to sheathe vertical surfaces. However, the main thing is that the walls are without bulges and depressions. They should be flat along their entire plane.
For lathing under vinyl siding, dry wood taken with a moisture content of 12-14%. A tree that is too wet will dry out over time, the crate will warp, and with it the covering will slip.

Usually the lathing made of bars with a section of 25 (30, 40, 50) × 60 mm. For these purposes, a galvanized plasterboard profile of the same width is also suitable. The wood should treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Plasterboard impregnation not required.

the bottom line of the problem: not all fasteners will fall into the middle of the bar. If, for some reason, narrow laths installed, the panels will have to be modified. In problem areas, the holes on the flange must lengthened with a notch or drill. You can use another suitable tool.
The sheathing boards should wide enough for the siding fasteners to hold regardless of how the panels placed.

Installation of internal corner profiles of vinyl siding

The principles of installing internal corner profiles are similar to those used for installing external ones. The corner profile shortened to the required length so that a 3 mm temperature gap remains between the end of the panel and the cornice (soffit). In this case, the lower edge of the inner corner profile must be located 6 mm below the edge of the starting strip.
If the floor, plinth or other obstacle interferes with the installation, the profile raised 6 mm up.
If the height of the wall greater than the length of the profile, two parts taken and overlapped on top of each other. A gap of at least 9 mm is left between the nail strips. The upper profile brought to the lower one by 25 mm.


Nails or screws placed in increments of about 40 cm. The fasteners inserted into the center of the holes. Top nails attached to the top edge of the nail hole.
The original internal corner profiles, like the external ones, can be replaced with two J-profiles. Moreover, even one J-profile can used for finishing interior corners how to install vinyl siding.

 Installation of plat bands around door and window openings

Window and door blocks can installed in the same plane with the wall or protrude from the wall, or they can install in a wall niche. The installation of platbands in each case has its own specifics.
Windows and doors are located in the same plane with the wall or protrude above it. For cladding, platbands or J-profiles used. First, window and door openings upholstered with waterproofing materials. 

These can aprons made of roofing sheet, rolled bituminous waterproofing or aluminum foil. In total, four platbands required for one opening: two for the upper and lower parts of the opening and two for the sides.

Now the lower casing attached to the structure. To bring it inside the side profiles, “tongues” cut out in them, and pieces of vinyl plucked out in the lower casing – “windows”, where the “tongues” should be inserted. “Windows” should be the same height as the profile.
The tabs of the side profiles are folded over the lower profile so that they cover the incision on it.


If the platbands attached to a protruding opening, the tongues pressed against it. If the opening made flush with the wall, the tongues bent inward, into the lower profile, or cut off.


Windows and doors are located in the wall niche. For cladding, in this case, near-window profiles used. They modified platbands. The perimeter profiles equipped with a shelf for closing the slopes of the niches. These components mounted according to the same rules as conventional platbands. The shelves of the near-window profile, which cover the slopes, cut to the depth of the niche. They then inserted into pre-installed finishing profiles.

Installing the first vinyl siding panel

Work carried out from the rear facade to the front, from the rear corners to the front. So the joints of the panels when building them with an overlap along the length will be less striking.
The lock of the first row panel, located in its lower part, is led into the corresponding lock of the starting strip. The upper part of the panel attached to the crate. It is impossible to stretch the siding too much, otherwise it will burst during thermal expansion. 

If the installation carried out during the cold season, a gap of about 9 mm left between the panels. For summer installation, it reduced to 6 mm in warm weather and up to 3-4 mm in hot weather. As noted in the first chapter, the dimensions of the thermal clearances indicated for solid panels. The cut parts also need a gap, but in smaller sizes.

The H-profile visually emphasizes the vertical section of ordinary siding panels, making them more noticeable. Therefore, it must mounted so that it does not spoil the appearance of the cladding, but organically fits into it.

Installation of subsequent ordinary vinyl siding panels

Subsequent panels mounted according to the same principle as the first. Every third row is checked for horizontalness using a level. Installation of siding around the window opening. 

If there is a window on the wall, then the next row will definitely reach the bottom edge of the opening. Ordinary panels, which will located under the opening, cut to the width of the window plus two horizontal temperature gaps (6 mm on each side). The cut ends of the panel inserted into the receiving groove of the casing or window profile. This leaves the siding with enough space for thermal expansion.

The panel cut-out depth should be such that a minimum vertical temperature gap (1 – 2 mm) remains between the panel and the receiving groove of the lower casing (near-window profile).
Hooks made on the panel using a punch, by means of which the row panel attached to the lower and upper trim of the opening.
The siding trim depth depends on how high the window opening is from the ground. Therefore, if a near-window profile used to frame the opening, a finishing profile additionally mounted in the lower trim.

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